In life, we all have mentors, people that inspire us to aim higher, to achieve more or simply be a better version of who we are.
Four years
ago, I had the privilege to meet a true gentleman. I must confess it
was a style crush at first sight! Mr Thuan Nguyen is currently dividing
his time between Paris and Ho Chi Minh City. Today he is now recognized
as one of the most stylish and elegant men about town. For this article,
Mr Thuan Nguyen is wearing his own made to measure tailored suit.
Whilst I wore a single breasted "Antonio Torres", not only that I was
styled by Antonio himself!
But how well do you wear your suit? With today’s article I would like to go through the basic rules when wearing a suit.
1. Suit Color
This is all about preference, but black isn’t the be all and end all of suits.
Most
of us own a dependable black suit, it's a wardrobe staple but a
wardrobe full of black suits is just unadventurous (sorry Mr Ford!)
Personally I love navy blue or dark grey as first choices: just so easy
to mix and match.
2. Shoulders must fit
2. Shoulders must fit
The
days of Miami Vice are over. If you don’t have broad shoulders then it
is important that you pay way more attention to the fit. It is important
to see how much of your frame fills out the jacket. If your physique is
a little imbalanced then you may never find the perfect fitting jacket
and will require a skilled alteration tailor!
3. Cuff coverage
3. Cuff coverage
Some
people will have longer arms than others, so it is hard to fully
determine what can be done about your cuffs if you do indeed have long
arms: ideally, the shirt cuffs will exceed the suit jacket by about half
an inch and certainly no more than an inch or less than the actual
jacket.
4. Jacket Length
4. Jacket Length
As
a rule on a traditional jacket the length of sleeve should hit the same
height as the knuckle of your thumb. More contemporary jackets may be
shorter but never go longer.
5. Trouser length
5. Trouser length
The
length must sit perfectly on your ankle and crucially before it rests
on your shoe. When you sit down your trousers will rise up a little bit,
so to save yourself from embarrassment make sure that you have socks
that rise a fair way past your Achilles. If you wear gym socks or those
short length socks with a suit, then you’ll get what you deserve if your
hairy legs are on show.
6. Shoe Color
6. Shoe Color
Shoe
colour is important because it compliments your choice of suit. Black
suit and black shoes are the “sit on the fence swiss” option, but if you
actually want to look like you don’t just own one suit or aren't a
character out of Pulp Fiction, you will need options. Brown always works
well with navy, but not necessarily always with grey. So be vigilant
and make sure you don’t take the simplistic look of brown is brown.
Remember belt always matches shoes!
7. Pocket Square
Don’t ever have a pocket square that matches your tie. It rather defeats the purpose of having a flourish of additional color and pattern. It also just looks like you're wearing a pre bought Christmas set from Grandma!
Hope my
top tips will help you "rock" a suit for any occasion! Finally, I am a
man who believes a well cut suit just like in the movies makes for a
great night, customized suiting is a must for a man who understands the
gentleman's lifestyle.
Special thanks to The Society
Hi admin,
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